Category Archives: vegetarian

Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge and Back to London

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Written on June 13, 2008, at Eat and Two Veg Restaurant, London, United Kingdom

This morning, I had to go to Cambridge and Sarah was off to Kent, so we said our goodbyes. I caught the train to Cambridge and met a nice woman named Emily Esche on the way. She is studying archaeology and is particularly interested in studying human remains. So, we could talk shop. She later sent me an email with great advice for sites around Stonehenge.

When I got off the train at Cambridge, I was stunned by the number of bikes parked outside the station (the pic shows less than a quarter of the bikes).

Bike Parking, Train Station, Cambridge, England Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

I walked to the Fitzwilliam Museum and, since the museum’s 25th dynasty expert is on leaving writing her thesis, I met with a fellow named Anders Bell, who showed me an Assyrian artifact from the museum’s store (i.e. storage area) then directed me to the ancient Sudan gallery and three ancient Egyptian galleries, excellent for research purposes.

Assyrian Artifact, Contemporary With 25th Dynasty Egypt, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Nubian Fertility Figurine, Copper Alloy, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, Englad Nubian Bust of Female, Copper Alloy, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Faience Beads With Cartouches of Rulers, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Faience Beads With Cartouches of Rulers, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Pottery Vessels, Sanam, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England
Alabaster Vessels, Sanam, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Faience Amulets in the Form of Wedjat Eyes, a Hand, a Sistrum, Hathor and Bes Figures, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Glass, Faience, and Paste Necklaces, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England
Mirror, Copper Alloy, Sanam, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Faience and Steatite Necklaces With Traditional Egyptian Amulets, Sanam, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Pottery Vessel and Scarabs, Sanam, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Scarabs, Sanam, 25th Dynasty Sudan, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Copper Alloy Figure of Metal Worker and Wood Cubit Rod, Late Period From 746-336 BCE, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Wood Ptah-Sokar-Osiris Box Containing Papyrus Scroll, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Wood Ptah-Sokar-Osiris Box Containing Papyrus Scroll, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Wood Ptah-Sokar-Osiris Box Containing Papyrus Scroll, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Wood Ptah-Sokar-Osiris Box Containing Papyrus Scroll, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Fish on a Sledge, Probably Part of Coffin for Mummified Fish, Copper Alloy, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Faience Figure of Shu, God of Sunlight and Air, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Painted Wood Stela of Woman Offering to Re-Harakhty, Sun God of the Underworld, 22nd Dynasty Egypt, at Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Amun Figure, Copper Alloy, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, at Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Rams Head Fitting, Probably Amun, Copper Alloy, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, at Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Prow for a Sacred Boat, Copper Alloy, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Ithyphallic Amun Min Figure, Copper Alloy, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Bes FIgure, God Who Protected Pregnant Women and Children, Painted Plaster and Wood, New Kingdom Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Tawaret Figure, Goddess Protecting Women During Childbirth, Diorite, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Neith Statue, Goddess of Sais Associated With Warfare, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Kneeling Priest Figure, Copper Alloy, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Sekhmet Figure, Copper Alloy, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Kneeling Man Figure Holding Osiris Shrine, Serpentine, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Osiris Figure, God of Underworld, Copper Alloy, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Figure of Woman and Bes, God Protecting Pregnant Women and Children, Copper Alloy, Late Period, 746-525 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Uraeus Cobra, Painted Wood Attachments, Late Period, 746-332 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Ear Stela, Limestone, Probably Dynasty 18 Temple of Hatshepsut, Found at Montuhotep Temple, Deir el Bahri, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Phallic Fertility Figures, Wood, New Kingdom, 1550-1070 BCE, Montuhotep Temple, Deir el Bahri, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Fertility Figures, Clay, New Kingdom, 1550-1070 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Statue of Priest Holding Large Sistrum in Form of Hathor, Granite, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Mendes, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Statue of Priest Holding Large Sistrum in Form of Hathor, Granite, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Mendes, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Statue of Priest Holding Large Sistrum in Form of Hathor, Granite, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Mendes, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Statue of Priest Holding Large Sistrum in Form of Hathor, Granite, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Mendes, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Statue of Priest Holding Large Sistrum in Form of Hathor, Granite, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Mendes, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Statue of Priest Holding Large Sistrum in Form of Hathor, Granite, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Mendes, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Relief of Amenirdas, Sister of Shabaka, or Shepenwepet, Divine Consort Making Offering, Sandstone, 25th Dynasty, 715-700 BCE, Amenirdas Chapel, Medinat Habu, Egypt, at Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Amenirdas Cartouche, Faience, 25th Dynasty, 746-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Amun Relief, Originally Inlaid, Copper Alloy, 25th Dynasty, 746-664 BCE, Saqqara, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Vessel With Marsh Scene and Nubian Identified by Short Wig, 25th Dynasty, 746-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Nubian Woman, Limestone Sculpture, 25th Dynasty, 746-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Figurine of Woman Holding Statue of Young Horus, Copper Alloy, 25th Dynasty, 746-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Figurine of Naked Woman With Crown, Probably of Fertility Priestess, 25th Dynasty, 746-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Shabti of Taharqa, Calcite, 25th Dynasty, 690-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Funerary Cone for Taharqa, Clay, 25th Dynasty, 690-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Figurine Probably of Taharqa, Copper Alloy, 25th Dynasty, Probably 690-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Figurine of Taharqa, Copper Alloy, 25th Dynasty, 690-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Detail of Figurine of Taharqa, Copper Alloy, 25th Dynasty, 690-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Archaized Relief of Sem Priest Looking After the Deceased, Limestone, 25th Dynasty, 746-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Archaized Portrait of Ruler, Basalt Statue, 25th or 26th Dynasty, 746-525 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Archaized Painted Head, Limestone, Late Period, 746-525 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Archaized Relief, Limestone, Late Period, 746-525 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Ring With Cartouche of Smendes, Copper Alloy, 21st Dynasty, 1070-1044 BCE, Egypt, Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Statuette Inscribed With Name of Sheshonq V, Glassy Frit, 774-736 BCE, Saqqara, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Statuette of Boy Prince or Harpocrates, Limestone, Second Century BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Bes As Fountain, Marble, About 117-250 CE, Rome, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Ape Clinging to Cartouche Dish, Faience, Late Period, 746-336 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Color Palette Inscribed With Name of Ihy, Overseer of Recruits for the Palace, Slate, 5th Dynasty, 2504-2347 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Figure of Man, Limestone, About 3500-3000 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Bes Furniture Fittings, of Ebony, Wood and Ivory, New Kingdom, 1550-1070 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Locust Figure, Copper Alloy, Late Period, 746-332 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Magic Knives to Offer Protection, Ivory, 13th Dynasty, 1794-1648 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Cobra Wand Found With Magical Texts and Implements in Tomb 5 Under the Ramesseum, Copper Alloy, Middle Kingdom, 2119-1794 BCE, Thebes, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Ibis Wand, Wood, New Kingdom, 1550-1070 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Staff Terminals Decorated With Bull and Lotus Motif, Staffs Missing, Copper Alloy, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Figure of Isis and Horus Dedicated to Hatiufankh on the Base, Copper Alloy, About 200-100 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Horus Standing on Oryx, Dedicated by a Priest of Amun, About 200-100 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Horus Standing on Oryx, Dedicated by a Priest of Amun, Copper Alloy, About 200-100 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Ring Inscribed With Name of Wearer and Figures of Gods Including Amun, Gold, New Kingdom to Late Period, 1550-336 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Figure of Anubis as Jackal, Painted Wood, Third Intermediate Period, 1070-714 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Neo-Assyrian Cylinder Seals, About 950-600 BCE, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Neo-Assyrian Cylinder Seals, About 950-600 BCE, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Neo-Assyrian Stamp Seals, About 950-600 BCE, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Neo-Assyrian Stamp Seals, About 950-600 BCE, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England Nubian Fertility Figurine With Short Wig, Copper Alloy, 25th Dynasty, 746-664 BCE, Egypt, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

Cemetery Objects, Napatan Period, 700-300 BCE, Sanam Abu Dom, in Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England

The next blog entry has a special feature on Pakepu’s coffins. He was a Water carrier who lived in Western Thebes around 700-650 BCE.

I managed to finish my work at the museum in 2½ hours. On the way back to the train station, I took a few pictures of the Scott Polar Research Institute and the wonderful statue of a nude young man outside it.

Scott Polar Research Institute, Cambridge, England Statue of Nude Young Man, Scott Polar Research Institute, Cambridge, England Detail of Statue of Nude Young Man, Scott Polar Research Institute, Cambridge, England

I also walked a bit further down the street and visited the cathedral on the way to the train station.

Old-Style Building, Cambridge, England Cathedral, Cambridge, England Cathedral, Cambridge, England

Cathedral, Cambridge, England Interior of Cathedral, Cambridge, England

Then I hopped back on the train to London to check into the overpriced European Hotel near Kings Cross, into that small basement-level room with a loud bathroom fan and a musty odor with little room for anything else but the bed and the lamp next to it, all for the bargain rate of £45 (~US$90) per night. That’s actually a good deal in central London.

I massaged my body with a hot shower, then headed out to find free wifi, so I could search for vegetarian restaurants and queer bars. The Cafe Sosso closed just as I arrived, so instead I went to the (Quaker) Friends House cafe, which had also closed, but they let me site there in the courtyard and browse with my laptop. I found this excellent veg restaurant called Eat and Two Veg where I just finished an excellent meal of veg sausage on mashed potatoes with fresh-squeezed juice and a fruit cobbler topped with butterscotch ice cream for dessert.

The Mother City

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I arrived yesterday in Cape Town, my final destination before returning home to San Francisco. “The Mother City” is indeed beautiful. I have yet to do the site-seeing, but I’m enjoying the sun and the wicked afternoon breeze.

I met long-time Cape Town penpal Daniel last evening. He brought me to a lovely Indian restaurant where I definitely noticed the horn of plenty here as compared to Zimbabwe where I always felt a bit deprived on the food front. Plenty of excellent vegetarian options available here.

Snafus on the Way to Accra

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I boarded the Air Senegal flight in Bamako worried because it left late for Abidjan. That meant that I and several other guys missed our onward flight to Accra on Air Emirates. The following Emirates flight to Accra was in two days! So I opted to purchase an Air Ivoire ticket (because they wouldn’t accept the Emirates ticket) and to seek a refund for the Emirates flight later on. I ended up spending the night on Air Senegal’s dime at the airport hotel in Abidjan. The Abidjan airport is quite nice and modern. I met a couple of women there, as well as a creepy guy who tried to scam me as I was eating my dinner, also paid by Air Senegal, as was breakfast the next morning. I actually managed to get a lot of work done on the book since I had no distractions in the airport hotel, then during the eight hours after checking out and before the departure of the Air Ivoire flight.

I felt quite triumphant boarding that flight, despite a nasty airline employee who told me that the yellow rice sack I used to carry my excess luggage was not aesthetique (esthetic). She forced me to pay to have the sack wrapped in plastic and check it in rather than carry it on. OK, so I finally arrived in Accra and – guess what? — my bag checked in at Bamako hadn’t made it to Accra, despite several possible flights on which it could be sent.

After getting the runaround between three different lost luggage counters, I managed to file a report. I also noted the sign on the way to baggage claim that said (paraphrased): “Pedophiles and other sexual deviants are not welcome in Ghana. If you have come here to engage in such activities, please leave.� I felt warm and welcome all over, especially since I had heard recently from Andre about the Ghana government arresting a British citizen who was found with pictures of him having sex with a man in Ghana – who was apparently also arrested. The more I think about it, the more it seems like a sting operation or an attempt at extortion. This, and a prior incident in Dakar left me feeling not at all sexy, and I remained that way, except for fantasies about foreign travellers, even until today.

Back in Bamako, Mali….

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After Pays Dogon, I managed to get back to Bamako in reasonably good shape. I stayed a couple of nights at the marvelous Hotel Djenné, created by the former minister of tourism who had a great idea when she invited artists to decorate the place. On the bus ride there, I met a Dutch woman and her French traveling companion who was working on developing schools for young women in Mali. I met some other travelers over breakfast. O, and the first evening, I went to pick up the package I had left at Hotel Yamey and to try to visit Damien, the French guy working at his father’s restaurant, the Café du Fleuve. Unfortunately, he wasn’t around so I returned to the northern side of town to eat at the Restaurant San Toro, also owned by the former minister of tourism.

As a single person, I felt very conspicuous when I entered the restaurant, especially when they had no place for me, but after awhile of sitting and listening to a man playing the kora, I got into the spirit of the place and they eventually served me delicious juices and a vegetarian platter. I was craving good food after weeks in the “brousseâ€? (countryside). Better nourished, and after a walk and a stop at the somewhat seedy cafe where I saw a transvestite, I returned to the hotel and slept well. I had tried to treat Samuel Sidibe and a professor friend of his to lunch, but he was busy, so I just stopped by to pick up the conference proceedings he had obtained for me. They included a griot’s account of the history of the Mali Empire, a crucial contribution to my book.

Monument to Palestinian Children, Bamako, Mali

I spent the rest of the day trying to get a flight in January from Timbuktu to Bamako and managed only to confirm my place on the waiting list. That evening I again tried meeting Damien at the Cafe du Fleuve and instead ended up sharing a delicious meal with a Dutch fellow Michiel and a female friend of his, also Dutch, Lisa Winnen. They were very kind of me and my spirits revived considerably in preparation for my trip to Accra.

Bamako, Mali

Early Days in Addis Ababa

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Written at Finfine Hotel, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

After leaving the Internet cafe on Saturday, I walked just around the corner and sat down on a little chair at the end of the chained-off drive in front of the the Ethiopia Hotel. One of a couple of Sudanese runner girls who I saw out in front of the Internet cafe said “hi�. I responded and we chatted a bit until some other guys came along. They explained that runners from Sudan often go to Ethiopia to train in altitude so they will have higher tolerance.

I Think I’m Turning Ethiopian

I learned that Ethiopians are different from those of us from the U.S. and Europe in another way. That is, their 12:00 starts at our 6:00am and our 6:00pm.

At first, I thought it crazy. But this morning I woke up realizing how much more sense it is for the time system to reflect and reinforce the behavior of starting the day when most people wake up. In the case of urban Ethiopians, the wake-up call comes automatically each morning from the local muzzeins who chant from the minarets. That wake-up call comes at 11:30 Ethiopian (i.e. 5:30am under the U.S./Euro time system). Then, they chant again 12:00 or 6:00am to wake most people up, to pray or perhaps at least to get ready for work. The next time 12:00 rolls around, it’s basically time to kick off work and eat some dinner.

Contrast the Ethiopian method with our method based on the astronomical notion of the maximum darkness or distance from the earth and the maximum lightness or minimum difference from the sun. We’re constantly messing around with daylight savings time schemes to make the time system more practical and energy-conserving. Which system is more practical really?

So, another weird thing about Ethiopia is that they never switched to the new Gregorian calendar which we currently use. So, most Ethiopians are getting ready to celebrate the new millennium of the year 2000 still. They are about seven years behind us, and their months only partially align to ours.

Moving to the Finefine Hotel

I tramped over to the Hotel Finfine to see if they had rooms available. The reception lady shows me the only room available. This hotel is still a bit old and perhaps drab, but the rooms are gigantic and the bathrooms offer hot water from local thermal springs. The open courtyard reminds me of some fairly well-off Indian hotel. The guard half-heartedly waves his security wand over whatever I happen to be carrying with me when I walk in. Of course, the wand detects problems (i.e. metal I’m carrying with me), which the guard promptly ignores, exchanging a smile with me. I make a reservation for the following day, Sunday.

Delicious Fasting Food at the Finfine Hotel Restaurant Tables in the Finfine Hotel Restaurant

I had my first meal of Ethiopian food in Ethiopia at the Finfine Hotel. I like the food – various heated and delicious vegetable dishes on the traditional injeera bread. The portions of food are so much food I can’t eat it all for under US$4 dollars.

Cruising the Piazza for Cockroaches

To liven up my evening after returning to the Ethiopia Hotel for my last night there, I decide to check out the Piazza neighborhood of Addis Ababa. On my way to check out the National Theater and the Mega Theater on the way to the Piazza, one of the guys in Andinet Square starts his hustle. “Where are you from?â€? “You want to see this or that?â€? etc. This one keeps walking with me up Churchill Ave. asking again and again if I want to meet this person who speaks French. Luckily, he clarifies that he wants no money, although I still don’t feel I can trust him.

When I see Satan Bet (Satan’s Theater) closed on the way, I stop to ask a fellow who is leaning against a rail in front of the theater what is going on. He explains that the theater doesn’t show anything in the evening. We admire the beautifully sculpted doors, including a instrument called a kerar in relief on one door. We introduce ourselves. His name is Paulo. After chatting a bit, I let him know I’m heading toward the Piazza.

He accompanies me and I feel perfectly comfortable with him. We stop by the Baro Hotel to see if they have rooms available, but they don’t. We meet a couple of Brits driving their vehicle throughout Africa… they started in West Africa and seven months later are now on an itinerary similar to mine through Ethiopia, Sudan, and Egypt.

Paulos and I look around the Piazza area for a place to buy a draught beer. The first place we enter has run out of draught. Paulo brings me to another one where we climb the rickety spiral stairs. The DJ is playing other music upstairs, mostly from the U.S. After I comment on how I’d like to hear Ethiopian music, Paulos asks the DJ and he plays some famous Ethiopian music. Paulos tells me the most popular singer is Ethiopia is Laun (?) Desessa (?). I’ve heard a bunch of Ethiopian music I really like since I’ve been here, although I’ve had trouble idenitying which is which.

Paulos orders “two draughtsâ€? in Amharic as we had agreed. The waiter brings back two drafts each, double what we could possibly need. Near the bottom of my second draught, I found something really gross: a cockroach. I felt something in my mouth and spit it out. Luckily, it was dead. I couldn’t get the gross feeling out of my gullet for a couple of hours after we left that place. Plus, I couldn’t help suspecting the wait staff of planting the roach in there purposely. Perhaps the cockroach in Ethiopia is similar to the larva in certain special Mexican tequilas? 😉

Ethiopian Religious Acceptance and the Star Trek Connection

I awoke in the morning to the calls from the minarets. It happens five times a day to call the faithful Muslims to prayer. For a country that is so Christian, it is amazing how well the Christians and Muslims get along. I saw Christian construction workers chatting and milling around casually while the Muslim workers got down on their mats to pray.

Star Trek fans will be delighted to learn the origin of the use of the words ferengi, negus, and perhaps also krar, which mean “foreigner,â€? “kingâ€? (archaic), and a kind of stringed instrument. in Amharic. I used to think ferengi came from the Hindi word for foreigner, but Hindi doesn’t have negus or krar as far as I know. Amharic is Ethiopia’s official language. Of course, there are dozens of other languages spoken regionally in Ethiopia.