Category Archives: spirituality

Zooming All the Way to Great Zimbabwe and the Ancient City Lodge

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I took the bus from Harare to Masvingo.

Landscape and Cone-on-Cylinder Buildings Between Harare and Masvingo, Zimbabwe Landscape and Cone-on-Cylinder Buildings Between Harare and Masvingo, Zimbabwe Landscape and Cone-on-Cylinder Buildings Between Harare and Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Landscape and Cloudy Sky Between Harare and Masvingo, Zimbabwe Landscape and Cloudy Sky Between Harare and Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Then, on January 20, 2008, I made it to the Great Zimbabwe Monument, outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe, by paying off a local gas station owner who was willing to undercut the price offered to me by unscrupulous taxi operators in town.

I stayed at the stunning Ancient City Lodge, which is itself a recreation of the grounds of ancient Great Zimbabwe. The hotel is one of the best hotels where I’ve stayed anywhere in the world and certainly an amazing find in Zimbabwe. Tip: the price in South African rand was much more reasonable than the US dollar price for some unknown reason.

Bedroom of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Bedroom of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Bedroom of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Front Entrance of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Bedroom of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Bedroom of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Bathroom of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Towel Rack in Bathroom of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Bathtub in Bathroom of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Shelves in My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Bedroom of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Bedroom of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Walled Garden of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey and Baby in Garden Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey and Baby in Garden Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkey and Baby in Garden Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey in Tree Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Opening Fruit in Garden Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkey Eating Fruit in Garden Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey on Garden Wall Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey on Garden Wall Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkey Eating Fruit in Garden Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Climbing Tree in Garden Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Body of Impala Grazing in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Climbing Tree in Garden Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala Grazing in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Horny Impala Grazing in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Crossing Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkey Outside Window of My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkeys in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impalas Butting Heads in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala Showing Off Balls in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Impalas Grazing in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Impala Grazing in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Reaching for Something in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkeys in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkeys in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkeys in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkeys in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkeys in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkeys in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Baby Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Jumping From Tree in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Climbing Tree in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkey Perched in Tree in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkeys in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Munching on Flower in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkey in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Climbing Tree Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Perched in Tree Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Monkey Perched in Tree Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Perched in Tree Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Monkey Holding Baby Monkey on Wall Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Impala in Meadow Outside My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Reception Desk at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Photograph of President Mugabe Behind Reception Desk at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Floor Mosaic Probably of Crocodile or Lizard, Reception at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Landscaping at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Landscaping at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Swimming Pool at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

View From Swimming Pool Area at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe View From Swimming Pool Area at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Patio Near Swimming Pool at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Patio Near Swimming Pool at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Replicas of Great Zimbabwe Birds at the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Grounds of the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

Grounds of the Ancient City Lodge, Great Zimbabwe, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe Sculpture of Great Zimbabwe Bird Outside the Enclosure Around My Suite at the Ancient City Lodge, Outside Masvingo, Zimbabwe

After resting for a day, I made my way to the monument the following day as chronicled in the following blog entry.

A Day in Timbuktu: Ahmed Baba Institute and Another Manuscript Library

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The Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques – Ahmed Baba (IHERI-AB), formerly the Centre de Documentation et de Recherches Ahmed Baba (CEDRAB), commonly known in English as the Ahmed Baba Institute, houses an excellent collection of historical manuscripts in Timbuktu.

Sign for Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Bad Photo of Manuscript, Al Ahkam al Shar iyyat al Kubra, Copied in 1204, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Photo of Manuscript, Al Shifa bi ta arif huquq al Mustafa, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali

Photo of Manuscript, Al Shifa bi ta arif huquq al Mustafa, Illumination Detail, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Photo of Manuscript, Mus haf Karim, Illuminated in Gold Leaf, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Photo of Manuscript, Mus haf Karim, Illuminated in Gold Leaf, Detail, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali

Manuscript, Koran Commentaries Copied in 1241, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Koran Commentaries Copied in 1241, Detail, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Risalat fil Basariyyat, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali

Manuscript, Risalat fil Basariyyat, Detail, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Letter From El Hadj Omar, Copied Around 1850, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Risalat ila Amir al Fullan Ahmad Ahmad, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali

Manuscript, Pharmaceutical Treatise, Written 17th Century, Copied 18th Century, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript Copied in Marrakesh in 1599 by Ahmad Baba of Timbuktu, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Blurry Photo of Manuscript, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali

Blurry Photo of Manuscript, Detail, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Tarikh al Sudan, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Tarikh al Sudan, Detail, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali

Manuscript, Tarikh al Sudan, Detail, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Tarikh al Fattash fi akhbar al buldan wal juyush wa akabir, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Tarikh al Fattash fi akhbar al buldan wal juyush wa akabir, Detail, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali

Manuscript, Tarikh al Fattash fi akhbar al buldan wal juyush wa akabir, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Medical Treatise in Verse, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Illuminated Koran, Purchased in Fez for 40 Mithqual of Gold in 1817, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali

Manuscript, Two Pages of Parchment, Koranic Verses and Text About Arabic Alphabet, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Two Pages of Parchment, Koranic Verses and Text About Arabic Alphabet, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Manuscript, Biography of Sheik Sidi Al-Mukhtar Al-Kounti and His Wife, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali

Koranic Prayer Art, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali Water-Damaged Family Tree, Ahmed Baba Institute, Institut des Hautes Etudes et de Recherches Islamiques, Timbuktu, Mali

We walked through Timbuktu from one manuscript library to another.

Donkey Cart, Town Square, Timbuktu, Mali View of Ostrich-Egg on Minaret of Mosque, Town Square, Timbuktu, Mali View of Ostrich-Egg on Minaret of Mosque, Timbuktu, Mali

View of Ostrich-Egg on Minaret and Layered Tower of Mosque, Timbuktu, Mali

The other library also had amazing historical manuscripts.

Al Shifa Qadi Alyad, Arabic Label, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Al Shifa Qadi Alyad, French Label, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Al Shifa Qadi Alyad, Illuminated Manuscript, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali

Al Shifa Qadi Alyad, Illuminated Manuscript, Blurry Detail, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Albakhari, Volume III, French Label, Copied in 1277 H, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Albakhari, Volume III, Illuminated Manuscript, Copied in 1277 H, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali

Manuscript Cabinet, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Need Transcription and Translation of Title, Arabic Label, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Need Transcription and Translation of Title, Illuminated Manuscript, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali

Ancient Manuscript Box, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Old Small Manuscript Tied in Leather Case, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Need Transcription and Translation of Title, Arabic Label, Small Leather-Bound Manuscript, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali

Need Transcription and Translation of Title, Arabic Label, Small Leather-Bound Manuscript, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Leafing Through Old Manuscript, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Need Transcription and Translation of Title, Arabic Label, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali

Need Transcription and Translation of Title, Marabout Magic Manuscript With Tables, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Photo of Man, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali Photo of Man, Manuscript Library, Timbuktu, Mali

Osun Sacred Forest in Oshogbo, Nigeria

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Oshogbo, Nigeria

Oshogbo (or Osogbo), the “city of peace” never dominated by foreign rulers, has a river that runs through it which the residents worship as the Yoruba goddess Osun.

River View, Oshogbo, Nigeria

I saw this amazing sacred forest, the Osun Sacred Grove, reportedly the original settlement of the founders of Oshogbo starting more than 400 years ago. Now a long-term Oshogbo resident in her 90s, Austrian artist Suzanne Wenger (or Susanne Wenger?) helped over the years to restore the grove with fantastic Yoruba sculptures and was ordained as a priestess of the cult of the deity Obatala – the god of creation.

UNESCO Sign for Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Entrance Gate for Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Entrance Gate for Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Entrance Tunnel for Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Mosaic in Entrance Tunnel for Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Wooded Path, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Ceramic Pot, Probably Altar, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Clay Mound, Probably Altar, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Gnarly Tree by Sculpted Wall, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpted Wall, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Thatched Ceremonial Home, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Nigerian Tourists in Front of Thatched Ceremonial Home, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Nigerian Tourists in Front of Thatched Ceremonial Home, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Art on Pillar of Ceremonial Platform, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrines by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Lush Vegetation by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Offerings at Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Tunnel Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Tunnel Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Possibly a Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Bridge Across Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Water Receptacle at Top of Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Wild Tree Branches, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Wild Tree Branches, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Magic Mushrooms, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Well-Rooted Tree, Osun River Bank, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Phallic Energy of Well-Rooted Tree, Osun River Bank, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Swirling Eddies in Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Bamboo by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Tree With Vines Dangling Into Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Lush Vegetation by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Lush Vegetation by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Bamboo by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Shade Under Bamboo by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Bamboo Cluster by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Bamboo Grove, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Mossy Foot at Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Stone-Studded Ceramic Pot at Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Ritual Ceramic Pot in Woods Near Chair Sculpture Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Tree Lichen or Nest, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Toward the end of the visit at the main grove, I returned to the area by the Osun River and near the ceremonial dwelling, which was a kind of palace. The residents didn’t want me to take pictures unless I paid lots of baksheesh. I had already paid to take pictures when I paid the admission fee, so I decided to let the pictures of the palace go and take pictures of everything else instead. 😉

Sculpture Shrine by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine by Osun River, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

I found some more sculptures and shrines on my way back to the entrance.

Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Shrine, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Meeting Building, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Closeup of Carved Wooden Door, Meeting Building, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Another Meeting Building, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Closeup of Carved Wooden Door, Another Meeting Building, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Carved Wooden Pole, Another Meeting Building, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

At the entrance to the grove, I found out there is another whole area down the street that I hadn’t seen, so I broke out some more baksheesh to see the place.

Chameleon Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Chameleon Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Closeup of Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Closeup of Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Closeup of Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Closeup of Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Closeup of Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Closeup of Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Closeup of Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Closeup of Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Closeup of Sculpture, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

After leaving the portion of the grove, I saw lots of sculptures alongside the access road on the way out.

Sculptures on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Probably Fungus on Tree, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Artisanal Building on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Artisanal Building on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpted Wall, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrines on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Bloody Animal Sacrifie, Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Bamboo Grove, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Monkeys Hiding in Vegetation by Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Monkeys Hiding in Vegetation by Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Tall Trees by Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sculpture Shrine on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculpture Shrine and Hollow Tree on Access Road, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Entrance to Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria Sign at Entrance to Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

Sculptured Wall at Entrance, Osun Sacred Grove, Oshogbo, Nigeria

I have located a place in Lagos to replace my lost laptop power adapter, so… Life is good! More after I get my laptop working again.

Abomey to Cotonou to Porto Novo

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Written on December 16, 2007, at the museums, and on December 25, 2007, Fajol Castle Hotel, Abeokuta, Nigeria

Cotonou, Benin

I couldn’t pick up my Togo visa in Cotonou because it turned out it was the weekend, so I headed to the station for Porto Novo.

All the Girls to School Billboard, Benin

Porto Novo, Benin

In Porto Novo, I stayed at the amazing Centre Songhaï, which was not only a hotel but also an entrepreneurial venture designed to inspire and empower African youth. I sampled their jams and a variety of juices produced there, including baobab, pineapple, and a bit-too-strong ginger. They had signs up around the premises explaining a bit of the philosophy of the place, including an integrated approach to design and industry.

Songhai Integral System Sign, Centre Songhaï, Porto Novo, Benin Grounds of Centre Songhaï, Porto Novo, Benin Mosque, Porto Novo, Benin

Appropriate Technologies Division Sign, Centre Songhaï, Porto Novo, Benin One Does Not Wait for the Future Like One Waits for a Train: The Future, One Makes It, Motto Painted on School Administration Wall, Porto Novo, Benin

My expedition walking to town included a visit to the Musée Ethnographique and the Musée Honmé.

Sign for Musée Ethnographique, Porto Novo, Benin Sign and Ornate Gate of Musée Ethnographique, Porto Novo, Benin Ornate Gate of Musée Ethnographique, Porto Novo, Benin

The Musée Ethnographique has exhibits related to birth, life, and death in cultures throughout Benin, including Gelede masks of the Yoruba as well as artifacts related to Betamaribe aka Samba (NW) and Patombou (NE) peoples. Léonard gave me a tour of the museum. There was also a Yoruba “statue� of a man with false breasts and a mask worn on top of his head carrying twins, one in each arm. Yoruba revere women as having the power of life and twins as a gift of the gods.

I avoided a trip inside the Musée da Silva, despite the well-done bas reliefs about slavery on the museum’s exterior, and despite the admonitions of a fellow hanging out on the street who worked there.

Slavery Art, Musée da Silva, Porto Novo, Benin Slavery Art, Musée da Silva, Porto Novo, Benin Slavery Art, Musée da Silva, Porto Novo, Benin

Description of Negro Spiritual, Musée da Silva, Porto Novo, Benin Slavery Art, Musée da Silva, Porto Novo, Benin Slavery Art, Musée da Silva, Porto Novo, Benin

Slavery Art, Musée da Silva, Porto Novo, Benin

I came across this temple-like edifice labeled Zangbeto Kphkli-Yaou with a fascinating altar on the premises.

Zangbeto Kphkli-Yaou Temple, Porto Novo, Benin Altar at Zangbeto Kphkli-Yaou Temple, Porto Novo, Benin Altar at Zangbeto Kphkli-Yaou Temple, Porto Novo, Benin

The Musée Honmé was the palace of the kings of Porto Novo from the late 17th to 19th centuries.

Sign for Musée Honmé, Porto Novo, Benin Entrance to Musée Honmé, Porto Novo, Benin Carved Wooden Entrance Door to Musée Honmé, Porto Novo, Benin

Carved Wooden Entrance Door to Musée Honmé, Porto Novo, Benin

Currently under renovation with a guide who explained very well the history of the place. There were courts of the king, the queen mother, a gri-gri room for the king, the “chambre noireâ€? for committing royal suicide, a kitchen with a divinity used to check the food for poison by a change in color, a tree of justice and some prison cells, the king’s toilet, the queen’s bathing area (although they lived elsewhere and came to the palace for 21-day stays during which they danced for the king in hope of being chosen to spend the night with him). Cannon were purchased for 15 male slaves or 21 female slaves from the French and perhaps also earlier from the Portuguese. A waiting room for visitors used so the king could check with a divinity about their intentions. Also had a mound representing Legba, a protective divinity, and representations of other divinities, as well as metal houses for ancestors. The king didn’t die – he went on a voyage. He didn’t bathe because he was always proper – he just refreshed his body. He didn’t eat – he adored the food.

Statues at Musée Honmé, Porto Novo, Benin Statue at Musée Honmé, Porto Novo, Benin

Returning to the hotel, I relaxed, ate dinner, and visited the Internet cafe. I also met the Director of the Songhaï Center who helped me clear up a billing problem for telephone calls that wouldn’t work properly to the U.S.