Ethiopia Reprise: Addis Ababa

After that Sunday (February 25) touring Addis Ababa with Paulos, I had an appointment scheduled with Dr. Berhane Asfaw at the Paleo Lab of the National Museum. Dr. Asfaw is one of my heroes because he was on the team that made the discoveries of three human remains at Herto in the Afar area of the Awash region of the Great Rift Valley in Ethiopia. In fact, he discovered the skull of a child in hundreds of pieces which he painstakingly cleaned and puzzled back together — a remarkable accomplishment which brought us much light on our early origins as the species Homo sapiens. The interview went very well.

Dr. Berhane Asfaw, Ethiopian Archaeologist

After the interview, I visited the National Museum and saw many interesting exhibits, including an excellent replica of Lucy, who was not Homo sapiens, but still an interesting gal who is back there somewhere in the early story of human origins.

Replica of Fossil Bones of Lucy at National Museum in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Artist Rendition of Lucy at National Museum in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Relative Size of Lucy and Modern Human, National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
The theory of how human ancestors began walking on two feet (bipedalism) instead of four feet seemed simple, but further discoveries have complicated matters.

Origin of Bipedalism Theory, National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

For my current research, I’m focusing mainly on Homo sapiens, the species of humans alive today. The earliest Homo sapiens on record so far appear around 200,000 to 160,000 years ago. One example is this skull (replica shown below) found in Lower Omo region of the Great Rift Valley in Ethiopia. I tried to go to the excavation site but the location was too remote and the bridge I would have needed to cross to get there has collapsed.

Omo I Homo Sapiens Skull Replica at National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Omo I Homo Sapiens Skull Replica View 2 at National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
My favorite Homo sapiens remains are those discovered by Dr. Asfaw, Tim White of University of California at Berkeley, and others at Herto in the Afar area of the Awash region of the Great Rift Valley in Ethiopia. They believe the remains are different enough from modern Homo sapiens sapiens to merit a separate sub-species which they dubbed Homo sapiens idaltu (replica shown below). Idaltu means “elder” in the language of the local Afar tribe in Herto village where the archaeologists discovered the remains.

Herto Idaltu Skull Replica View 1, National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Herto Idaltu Skull Replica View 2, National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Herto Idaltu Skull Replica View 3, National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Artist Rendition of Homo Sapiens Idaltu at National Museum in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Photo of Herto Discovery Site, National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Homo Sapiens Idaltu Groups and Tools, National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Homo Sapiens Idaltu Ritual Handling of Deceased, National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

The National Museum in Addis also exhibits old Ethiopian Orthodox illustrated manuscripts and modern Ethiopian art like “African Heritage” by Afewerk Tekle (1967), a painting about the Derg period in Ethiopian history, and “Three Faces of Africa” by Daniel Tohafe (1980).

African Heritage by Afewerk Tekle, National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Painting About Derg Era, National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Three Faces of Africa by Daniel Togate (1980)

Other notable examples include “How Long?” by TBD and “Ethiopian Symphony No. 5” by Girmay Hiwet (2001)
How Long, Painting in National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Ethiopian Symphony No 5 by Girmay Hiwet, National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Lawrence Arrives Triumphantly in Khartoum…

Well, that was one possible inspiration. But actually, I entered Khartoum sick as a really sick dog. In fact, it was the same sick from the Simien Mountains I wrote about in the last post. I only spent one night in the hospital until they ran tests that showed I was “normal” in every way (heh) except a stool test showed some pus (eew!). So, I started taking Cipro today and escaped from the IV dextrose drips at the hospital. Thanks to Pasteur, Fleming, and all the other relevant deities and spirits for antibiotics! And cell phones! More later… I’m fine, really. Please don’t worry. I’m at a good friend’s place, very comfortable now and I’ll have lots of time to rest and recover here.

Traveling Sick

Bleck! When I went on a trek up into the Simien Mountains, I got sick. I was trying to hike uphill at high altitude with a scout and a “horse-man” guiding a horse carrying my bags. Probably because of something I ate or drank the day before (the local talla sorghum beer perhaps?), I ended up puking while on the trail. I think my scout wanted me to keep on hiking, but that was out of the question. So, we flagged down a truck and got up to the camp. I got some great pictures before I got sick. The area has beautiful panoramic landscapes. The next morning we headed back down to Debark on a bus that was so overpacked I couldn’t even reach my camera to take a picture of it. I got out of Debark and back on another really bumpy bus to Gonder, which is pleasant and civilized by comparison. I’m still weak and a bit dizzy without solid food in a few days. But, I think I’m going to try to take the buses for Khartoum starting tomorrow (unless I feel worse tomorrow morning). I may stop by a clinic this afternoon. About half of travelers to Africa end up getting something like this, so it’s not really a surprise. I am a bit homesick at the moment. When I arrive in Khartoum, I’ll try to post more details and pictures. Hugs from Gonder!

The Gonder Castles Are Beautiful

And I’ll write more about them soon.

But this is just a note to say that I’ve arrived here.

I’m planning to spend a few days in the Simien mountains, then coming back to Gonder and heading over the Sudanese border at Mettama. Theoretically, I should arrive in Khartoum, Sudan, around the target date of March 15.

I will probably have much better Internet access there and catch up on posting to the blog with pictures!

Arrived in Axum

I arrived in Axum today and the Internet connections are spotty. So, have a look on a map to see where I am.

It’s possible to use google.com to get automatic email notifications when I post a new entry on my blog. If you can’t figure it out on your own, I’ll try to post the directions here soon.

Big hugs to all from Ethiopia!