Tango in La Boca and Faeries in San Telmo

Wow! What fun. Jim e went off on his own and Edgardo brought me to a colorful neighborhood of Buenos Aires called La Boca.

 Will in La Boca, Buenos Aires, Argentina  Edgardo in La Boca, Buenos Aires, Argentina  Colorful Buildings, La Boca, Buenos Aires, Argentina

We walked around the shops and climbed narrow stairways in a place where Italian immigrants lived in tiny rooms when they first arrived in the city.

 Immigrant Housing, La Boca, Buenos Aires, Argentina Will Dancing Tango, La Boca, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Then, we sat at a table out on the street at a restaurant where a couple danced tango for the tourists, along with a singer, accordion, and guitar. The big surprise came when the beautiful tango dancer grabbed me from the table and insisted I dance with her in front of the crowd of diners and tourists on the street. I got really embarrassed but she was really good and helped me to dance. Edgardo managed to snap a photo. Later on, she danced with him as well. I had a fabulous time!

Next we met up with Edgardo’s friend Nerissa. We walked through town until we got to the San Telmo neighborhood. We saw an interesting monument at a park and stalls where people were selling all kinds of arts and crafts. We had a coffee at a well-known cafe in San Telmo, then we found an amazing little shop that looked like a faerie homeland.

 Will in Faerie Shoppe, San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina Nerisa and Edgardo, Faerie Shoppe, San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina Will in Faerie Shoppe, San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

They sold faeries and dwarves and all kinds of creatures there. I bought some as gifts for folks at home.

Elf, Faerie Shoppe, San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina Frolicking Faeries, Faerie Shoppe, San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina Faerie Shoppe, San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

To round out the evening, we joined a Catholic procession and Passion Play as part of Easter weekend festivities. People listened to sermons broadcast from speakers on the street and walked along with statues of Jesus and Mary that rolled slowly to the stage in a plaza where a play re-enacted the crucifixion of Jesus with a hunky Jesus and other hunky guys getting crucified.

Easter Procession, Buenos Aires, Argentina Crucifixion of Jesus Re-Enacted, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo

Street Scene, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Jim e and I got up reasonably early and after a quick breakfast we headed to the Cafe de las Madres near the Plaza de Mayo.

Jim e Sparklepants, Cafe de las Madres, Buenos Aires, Argentina Cafe de las Madres, Buenos Aires, Argentina Will in Cafe de las Madres, Buenos Aires, Argentina
List of Disappeared Persons, Cafe de las Madres, Buenos Aires, Argentina Street Graffiti, Buenos Aires, Argentina Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
After a drink and a look at the pictures and the list of disappeared persons at the cafe, we walked over to the Plaza de Mayo and watched the mothers and grandmothers as the walked around the plaza. I even walked a bit with them.

Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina Grandmothers Walking on Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina Mothers Marching on Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
I felt moved by their courage in standing up against the abusive Argentinian dictatorship in support of their family members who were “disappeared.”

Mothers Marching on Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina Mothers Marching on Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina Mothers Marching on Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Mothers Marching on Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina Symbol of Madres on Pavement, Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina Mothers Marching on Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
We met Frank, a French-speaker from Montreal there after earlier meeting him at the hotel.

Jim e Sparklepants and Frank from Montreal, Buenos Aires, Argentina Jim e Sparklepants and Frank from Montreal, Buenos Aires, Argentina Will and Jim e Sparklepants, Buenos Aires, Argentina
After searching unsuccessfully for a vegetarian restaurant, we ended up eating at a mediocre restaurant with mate (the ubiquitous tea-like beverage served warm in cured pumpkin gourds), bruschetta, and empanadas (which weren’t as delicious as the one I had near the plastic surgery clinic).

Gandhi Bookstore, Buenos Aires, Argentina Burlesque Theater Entrance, Buenos Aires, Argentina Blurry Obelisk, Buenos Aires, Argentina
That evening, we went to a vegetarian restaurant called Bio in Palermo Viejo, which was hands down my favorite restaurant in all of Buenos Aires.

La Vida en Buenos Aires

Edgardo was a great pal while I was in Buenos Aires. He and Jim e and I hung out a lot together, well, especially he and I hung out together. He came to the hotel in a taxi to help me change dollars into pesos since I didn’t have any pesos I could use to pay the taxi driver until after I changed money. Afterwards we went to his place for a great “nap”.
Will and Edgardo, Apartment of Edgardo, Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

He lives with a guy named Javier who is a bit blase about life in Buenos Aires.

Julian and Edgardo, Apartment of Edgardo, Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Before meeting Andy, another guy from the Internet, I tasted my first real empanada at a place near the plastic surgery clinic where Andy has asked to meet me.

Empanada Shop, Buenos Aires, Argentina

He showed up late and wasn’t at the clinic. We walked around town, bought some books, and ended up eating dinner at a restaurant in Palermo Viejo. During dinner, I found out that he had a boyfriend and hadn’t told his boyfriend that we were meeting. I gave him some advice about honesty in relationships.

Next I met with a guy named Daniel, also from the Internet.

Internet Cafe, Buenos Aires, Argentina

We walked around Palermo Viejo and had a drink at a cafe. He was a nice guy but I got the impression that we didn’t hit it off that well. I later found out that he was hit by a car and injured a bit, so he went to his mother’s place out of town and we didn’t see each other again before I left.

I rounded out the day by going to a couple of gay bars (Sitges and Titanic) with Jim e and a guy staying at the hotel named Raoul. I didn’t really like the bars. Sitges was nearly empty and had only a few foreigners and a nervous under-age boy who got thrown out of the place. Of course, it was a Wednesday night.

Bush Out Graffiti, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Arrived in Buenos Aires

Yesterday, I arrived in Buenos Aires. I spent 20 hours in airports and planes with a bit of turbulence along the way. I really don´t like the traveling part of travel–I prefer being there.

I love the views from above the clouds in airplanes. Sometimes it looks like a glacial mountainous landscape or a dark turbulent ocean or a windswept parched desert.

Fog prevented our landing in Buenos Aires for a couple of hours. We circled around and around. Then, after we landed, I made it through passport control and customs with no problem. I waited for my friend Jim e Sparklepant´s flight to land. His flight was delayed due to fog as well.

We waited for an hour in the airport for the taxi scheduled by the hotel to arrive. It didn´t come so we called the hotel. We waited another hour and it still didn´t arrive so we called the hotel and ordered a taxi from the airport stand, which we should have done in the first place, as it turned out to be just as safe and a bit cheaper.

Of course, the taxi driver drove like a bat out of hell. I thought San Franciscans didn´t respect lane boundaries, but Argentinians have made sliding between lanes a national pastime. I took quite a few deep breaths as the trucks, taxis, and cars narrowly missed changing into the same lane at the same time.

Roberto greeted us upon our arrival at Hotel Bayres, in the Viejo Palermo barrio. He was friendly, and I was a bit grumpy about the taxi. Jim e and I made a pact to converse as much as possible in Spanish so he can become fluent and I can learn. I´m understanding much of what I hear, but occasionally I miss the meaning entirely.

The hotel is inexpensive ($30 per night with shared bath and $40 with separate bath) and the rooms are quaint. The rate includes a continental breakfast served at any time of day.

Before taking a nap, Jim e and I walked to Miranda, a charming restaurant recommended by Roberto. We had pasta with delicious sauces and hearty bread with an herb butter. The servers were very handsome, as are many of the guys and women in Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires is a busy city with lots of traffic and less respect for pedestrians than in San Francisco. However, if you walk a block or two from the large avenues, you can find relatively quiet streets, much more pleasant for a stroll. Many of the streets are in disrepair with what seem to be sidewalk improvement projects possibly initiated by local residents. Palermo Viejo has a certain charm with some old buildings and lots of shops and restaurants.

After a nap, I met an Internet friend named Daniel. We walked around Palermo Viejo again. Both of us were tired. We ate a snack of bruschetta and drank a beverage at a local restaurant. We talked about his recent trip to Europe and what to do while in Buenos Aires. He is a handsome and cosmopolitan fellow and I´d like to get to know him better.

He walked me back to the hotel and I waited with him for his bus to arrive. Then, I went back to the hotel, chatted with Jim e, played on the Internet a bit, and crashed for 12 hours!

This morning I woke up and Jim e had already left. Roberto pulled my continental breakfast together, which include a dulce de leche topping for the toast.

I must change money today because after the banks close at 3pm, they will be closed for several days for Easter holidays. Another Internet friend named Edgardo is on his way here by taxi to help me change dollars into pesos and hang out until he has to go to work at 5pm. Then, I´ll meet Andy, another Internet friend as he comes out of his appointment at the dentist at 6pm.

Fortunately, the hotel has two computers always available for Internet access, so I should be able to continue writing a lot for the next week or more.